A French drain is a trench with a perforated pipe set in gravel that intercepts groundwater and carries it away before it reaches your foundation. Around the foundation itself, this is the weeping tile system; further out in the yard, a French drain manages surface and subsurface water from low spots, downspouts, or a neighbouring slope. Both work on the same principle: give water an easier path than through your foundation wall.
Soil that slopes toward the house instead of away from it sends every rainfall straight at the foundation. Regrading the area immediately around the wall, often just the first several feet, is one of the lowest-cost ways to reduce water pressure on a foundation and is frequently the first thing we check on a wet-basement assessment.
A French drain is a gravel-filled trench with a perforated pipe that intercepts water before it reaches the foundation, routing it to a discharge point away from the house. Grading corrections reshape the soil slope around the foundation so surface water flows away from the house naturally rather than pooling against it. Many properties need both – a French drain handles subsurface water while corrected grading handles surface runoff – and we assess which combination your specific drainage problem actually needs.
Collect surface water at low points and route it to a storm connection or discharge point.
Move roof water several feet away from the foundation instead of dumping it at the wall.
Trench drains for hardscaped areas that would otherwise shed water toward the house.
Exterior French drain installation typically runs $100 to $250 per linear foot, similar to full waterproofing but usually at the lower end since a drain-only job doesn’t always include a full membrane. Grading corrections alone cost less, since they involve reshaping existing soil rather than installing a drainage system. Many properties end up needing a combination, priced together once we’ve confirmed how much of each your specific drainage problem requires.
A properly installed French drain or corrected grading generally needs very little upkeep, but it’s worth keeping the surface inlet, if there is one, clear of leaves and debris, and confirming downspouts stay connected and extended after any landscaping work. If you notice water pooling in the same spot it used to before the work was done, it’s worth a quick check rather than assuming the system has failed outright, since it can sometimes just be a blocked inlet.
Regrading changes the slope of the soil so water moves away from the foundation on the surface, which is the simplest and least expensive fix when surface water is the main source of the problem. A French drain works below grade, intercepting water before it reaches the foundation wall, and is needed when the source is a higher water table, a failed weeping tile system, or a slope that can’t reasonably be corrected from the surface alone. We assess which situation applies before recommending either approach or both together. We also check where the discharge end of the system actually terminates, since a French drain that empties too close to the house or onto a neighbouring property can just relocate the original problem instead of solving it. On sites with mature landscaping, we also flag any trees or shrubs whose root systems sit close to the planned trench line, since root damage during excavation is worth weighing against the drain’s exact path before digging begins.
Drainage reduces pressure but doesn't repair existing damage.
Some sites need a sump pump alongside drainage improvements.
Old or collapsed tile at the footing usually needs replacement, not just surface fixes.
Tell us what you're seeing and where it is on the property.
We inspect the affected area, confirm the cause, and check whether it's still active.
A specific scope of work and price in writing before we schedule anything.
Work is carried out to the agreed scope, then we review it with you and confirm it matches the quote.
They work the same way – weeping tile is the term used for the drain running along the foundation footing, while French drain more often describes a similar system elsewhere in the yard.
Sometimes, if surface water is the main cause. If water is coming from a higher water table or a failed weeping tile system, regrading helps but isn't a complete fix on its own.
Deep enough to intercept the water causing the problem, typically below the area needing protection. We determine the depth based on what's actually happening on-site.
Typically to daylight at a lower point on the property, a storm sewer connection where permitted, or a sump pit and pump system.
It depends on whether the water problem is coming from below grade or running off the surface – we assess this on-site, and many properties need a combination of both.
Very little once installed correctly. We recommend keeping downspouts and surface grading clear so water keeps moving toward the drain, but the buried pipe itself is not something you need to service on a schedule.